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Since anyone wishing to integrate himself into a group must eat
with it, there is no surer way of marking off those who are in and
those out than by food etiquette.
The order in which foods are eaten, which really does not matter,
becomes highly ritualistic: Soup, fish, poultry, meat, dessert (which echoes
the process of evolution) becomes a standard. Sweet should not be eaten
before savory, and rarely (in France never) with. The
French eat salad after the main dish, the Americans rigidly before; the
English, to the disgust of both, put it on the same plate as the (cold)
meat. In the East, it is more common to serve all the food together, often
in communal dishes, and allow a wide sampling of different items. In the
more individualistic West, place settings are rigidly set of from each
other, and so are “courses.” The serving of wine with food
becomes even more rigidly a matter of protocol, and operates to mark off
differences of status within classes: those who “know” wine
and those who do not.” |